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Accurate simulations are possible because each individual stitch is represented by a rectangle to reflect the ratio of a knitted loop.
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The latest version of Shima Seiki's SDS-ONE design software has been upgraded with several new features. The most recent of which is the accurate simulation of garment drape and reverse loops on knitwear fabrics.
"The system is now also much simpler to use," according to Miss Yasuyo Kamikawa, of Shima's Total Design Centre in Wakayama, Japan. "New garment ideas usually start with the desired yarn, which can also be scanned and entered into the SDS-One program database," she said. The SDS-One can then simulate the quality of the loop and fabric with the scanned yarn at the appropriate step in the design process.
At the start of this process, the SDS-One allows designers to scan in a rough sketch which it displays on screen. Although there is no gauge and the garment dimensions are a just rough measurement at first, Shima says the SDS-One does allow the user to enter specific garment dimensions, whereby a suitable silhouette is then selected from the database.
Minor on-screen adjustments such as shortening the body length and adjusting the garment grading can then be done before anything else is added to the design. The next step is then to specify the gauge of the garment and the stitch density, which will affect the garment weight (depending on the type of yarn selected). This means that users can calculate the exact number of stitches for each design, and it allows the program to simulate garment draping. The SDS-One achieves this level of accuracy because each individual stitch is represented by a rectangular block that reflects the exact ratio of a knitted loop.
"Users can then apply the scanned design onto the garment silhouette. In fact we can transfer the design for the overlay on to the garment in just 5 - 10 mins depending on the final design," said Ms Kamikawa.
The next step in the process is the selection of yarn colour. For example, using a colour reader, yarns can be scanned in from a seasonal shade card, although standard pantone colours are also available in the SDS-One database. Yarn counts can also be adjusted."
"The improved SDS-One program can then turn the information into a reliably accurate representation of the fabric. This is done instantly and there is no need for sampling. Modifications for the final garment can be made without a single stitch being knitted," added Ms Kamikawa.
Different knitted structures can then be added to the basic fabric design once it has been agreed upon by the designer and the buyer. Shima's SDS-One has a large database of these structures - over 1000 different knit constructions.
There is also the facility to add different types of yarn - such as boucles, and apply these effects to the fabric. There are over 100 types of yarn in the SDA-One database - all with different twists, hairiness, plys, etc, which affect fabric cover and density. Or, as stated, the yarn can be scanned directly into the system. Knitting gauge is then finalised.
"We are also developing basic styles of product for draping simulation," said Ms Kamikawa who noted that set-in sleeves are already possible to imitate with SDS-One. "We will be able to represent raglan sleeves, epaulet sleeves, and V-neck, crew neck, turtle neck. And we can also adjust the width of the collar."
The fabric designs and garment simulations can then be printed out onto card which gives a fluid and accurate representation of the garment and its draping properties. Reverse loops are printed on the flip side of the design. This is all done without a single stitch being knitted. Preliminary garment designs and styles can be exchanged by e-mail before the finalised samples are knitted. "In some cases samples have been finalised in one to two days as opposed to 1 - 2 months. It greatly speeds up sampling times," concluded Miss Kamikawa.
